Suzuki LT-F500F
Dimensions and Dry Mass: Engine:
Overall Length 78.9" Type: Four-Stroke, Liquid-Cooled, OHC
Overall Width 46" Number of Cylinders 1
Overall Height 44.1" Bore: 3.445"
Wheelbase 47.2" Stroke: 3.228
Ground Clearance 8.5" Displacement: 30.1 cu"
Front Track 34.6" Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Rear Track 33.5" Carburetor MIKUNI BST 34, single
Seat Height 31.5" Air Cleaner Polyurethane foam element
Dry Mass 606 lbs Starter System Electric & Recoil starter
Lubrication System Wet Sump
Transmission:
Clutch: Wet multi-plate type, automatic, centrifugal
Transmission: 5 Forward constant mesh & 1 reverse with 2 speed sub transmission
Drive System: Shaft Drive
Chassis
Front Suspension: Independent, double wishbone, oil damped
Rear Suspension: Independent, diagonal swing axle, oil damped
Caster: 3.3°
Trail: 0.67"
Toe-in: 15°
Camber: 0°
Steering Angle: 47°
Front Brake: Disk Brake, twin
Rear Brake: Drum Brake
Front Tire size: AT25x8-12** Tubeless
Rear Tire size: AT25x10-12** Tubeless
Electrical
Ignition type Electronic ignition (CDI)
Spark Plug NGK CR7E or DENSO U22ESR-N
Battery 12V 14Ah/10HR
Fuse 30/10/10/10/20A
Generator Three-phase A.C. generator
Capacities
Fuel Tank, including reserve 3.3 US gal
reserve 1.0 US gal
Engine oil, with change 3.6 US qt
with filter 3.8 US qt
Differential gear oil 5.1 US oz
Final gear oil 10.1 US oz
Engine coolant 2.6 US qt
Accessories: X1 Super winch 2000 lb capacity
I really love this winch. It has already proven to be an invaluable addition. I use it all the time to load and off-load onto the trailer and the back of the truck. It also comes in handy when I need to move a big rock out of the way. You have probably surmised that I'm not into ATV racing but more oriented to the utilitarian use of the ATV.
The racks are modified to handle larger boxes on the back. I also added my own 12 volt accessory adaptor to run an air compressor or other 12 volt appliance. I made an adaptor to plug in a 1250 GPM water pump to run the recirculating mini sluice in the desert. It saves me from having to carry around an extra battery. I can plug in a solar panel to help recharge the battery and run the motor when needed.
So, how does one haul around this machine? That has been an on-going quest
for me since I got it. There are two possibilities: carry it or haul it. For now
I opted to haul it on a separate trailer. 
This solved the immediate question as to how to get around with both the RV and
ATV at the same time. It keeps the extra weight off the RV but adds the problem
of double towing. Double towing is legal in many states but not all. Eventually
I plan to add a rack to the roof over the cab of the truck. Then I will have to figure
out how to carry around the trailer. 
When we are not hauling the RV, I can also load the ATV on the truck bed. This
is sometimes handy when I also haul another ATV on the trailer. I hope to add
another ATV or motorcycle the inventory someday. 
The trailer is light enough to allow me to tow it with the ATV. I can load up
equipment on the trailer and tow it to a remote site if needed.
August 2002 - We traded the trailer for some welding and materials to build a over-cab rack to carry the ATV on top of the truck. It seems that in Oregon even visitors get no slack when it comes to local laws. They apparently do not allow double towing at all in Oregon as we got cited while passing through La Grande. We have found out that no matter whether it is legal or not, if you look questionable, then you will get stopped and cited for anything they can find. It is best to keep as low a profile as possible to avoid these kind of problems.
Now how in the world did I drive it up there?
Check Out the Video!
The video is over 12 MB mpeg format. You will want have a broadband connection if possible.
Kudos and credits for the videography goes to Marcus Diaz of www.casadiaz.com
Just in case you have problems with the video I have included some snapshots of how I do it below.
The ramps are standard 6' steel from Harbor Freight that I bolted together using heavy gauge angle iron to make 2 - 12' ramps to reach the top rack above the truck cab. I needed at least 12' so the angle of the ramp would not be too steep. The tops of the ramps are bolted so they do not slip. The base of the ramps are bolted together with a brace near the bottom to maintain a constant width for the tires to follow. The ramps are inverted to make tracks for the tires to follow up. Braces in the center of the ramps are essential because they will bend in the middle without it. I made some big errors and learned this the hard way!
The winch mounted on the front of ATV does all the work pulling itself up the ramps. It is a little tricky to walk up the ladders following the ATV up the ramps. I do not have a remote control cable to run the winch. It is probably best because I can make minor adjustments to the front wheels as it climbs up the ramps and they will crawls out of the tracks if not followed exactly.
Once most of the weight is over the ridge on top of the truck I kick out the cable brace that I use to keep the cable higher to reduce the angle of climb of the winch as it approaches the top. If I don't have the cable brace in place the front of the ATV tends to want to plow into the top edge and puts too much of a strain on the winch.
Getting the ATV down is basically the reverse process. The winch powers out and I follow it down. There is no need for a cable brace going down. Storage of the ramps is easy enough as they un-bolt and fit exactly flat across the back deck of the truck bed.
If there's a will, there's a way!